![]() ![]() ![]() He brought it into the 21st century with new materials and fabric innovation, introducing leather and lurex, sequins and feathers, denim, rubber, and even cement to his versions of the classic jacket! Lagerfeld’s boundless imagination turned Mademoiselle Chanel’s creation into a worldwide object of desire. He transformed it by playing with proportion and volume by cropping its length or expanding its shoulder. Lagerfeld took the elements introduced by Gabrielle Chanel, and for the next 35 years would constantly reinterpret her jacket, injecting it with elegance and humor while retaining the modern spirit with which it was created. In 1983, a dozen years after the passing of Mademoiselle Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld was named the head of the house, and solidified the CHANEL jacket's icon status. The lining mirrored this same construction, as Chanel herself would say, “the inside should match the outside.” As for embellishment, the four-pocket design often included braided-trim along the edges and cuffs, jewel-like buttons (often mirroring CHANEL iconography: a lion’s head, a camellia, a sheath of wheat, a double C…) and interior chain detailing along the hem included on every jacket to ensure the perfect drop, hang, and swing.īut how did these elements which make a CHANEL jacket so revolutionary also serve in making a CHANEL jacket so alluring? Enter Karl Lagerfeld. The sleeve was slimly cut and set high on the shoulder to optimize comfort and movement. Her jackets were straight and structured, almost boxy and devoid of any darting, with a single seam down the center-back. While retrospectively modest when they were introduced in 1925, Gabrielle Chanel’s first tweed suits, set the groundwork for what we have now come to instantly recognize as a CHANEL jacket today. With this in mind, Gabrielle turned her attentions to tweed-and the fabric, which at the time was used only in menswear, soon became her signature. She was said to have often borrowed the clothes of her lover, the Duke of Westminster, because she felt drawn to the ease and comfort they provided. In the mid-1920s Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel started working with tweed for her womenswear. This belief led Mademoiselle Chanel to create her first tweed suits, and in turn, the iconic CHANEL jacket. In Alvarez’s world, you can be anyone you dream of.Born from the desire to liberate women from the restrictive sartorial norms of the day (not the least among them, the regular use of a corset), French designer Gabrielle Chanel sought to dress women “in suits that make them feel at ease," she once said, "but that still emphasize femininity.” An idea which now seems simple, and yet 100 years ago was the start of a fashion revolution. The show took place against the backdrop of a giant, mirrored dreamcatcher, with the intention of reflecting back on the audience. “Spending time on the West Coast really marked in me the importance of individuality and being grown up, but also forever young,” he said backstage. ![]() If a sneaker and slide were to have a kid that wanted to hang out at the skate park and chill, he’s given it life here. He also used dip dyes in pastels on parkas and as piping on tuxedo trousers.Īlvarez collaborated with Italian hiking boot brand Diemme to launch shoes this season. ![]() Trenchcoats were reinterpreted in light nylon, pulling from Alvarez’s love of extreme sports and utilitarian textiles, while his grandpa’s style seeped through in some of the looser cuts. Leopard print coordinates and long johns in sorbet shades topped with board shorts were an energetic take on the suit that kept the collection from veering into too serious territory. The Hawaiian hibiscus bloomed on track pants and popped with rhinestones on white trousers and denim, another nod to the beach culture he loves. He’s been spending time on the West Coast lately, and that California cool comes out in basketball jerseys and bright pops of color. The French-Filipino-American is all over the map, literally, and pulls in references from each element of his cultural heritage in what he called “superstitious” accents, such as studs on the backs of jackets to ward off the evil eye. Working with a neutral palette of navy, beige and black in styles that did not require. A pioneer of women's fashion, Chanel saw a need for simple, comfortable clothes that were elegant and understated. Not to say that he is all grown up - the designer keeps his fun, youthful influences with skater and surf notes at hand - but he added sharper tailoring and layering this season. Started by Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel in 1920, the House of Chanel has spawned some of the most iconic fashion pieces of the 20th century. Anthony Alvarez showed a new maturity with his latest collection. ![]()
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